Razorback Belt Temp Gauge
The first thing you need to know about a Razorback belt temp gauge is it is the ONLY belt temp gauge that actually measures the belt temp, others use a temp sensor that only measure the temp of the air inside the CVT cover which is not nearly as accurate as a infrared beam pointed directly to the belt.
The way to save a belt is basically you should drive and pay attention to the belt temp gauge, get too hot back it off and let it cool down so you don't blow a belt.
Belt temps spike or run high for several reason, all can be controlled one way or the other. Most times the high temps is because of your right foot on the GO pedal other times it is because the clutch calibration or set up is off. Clutches themselves wear or have other issues and a great example would be if you have a 16-17 model RZR with the square pucks instead of our round rollers in there, the pucks drag make the secondary less efficient and increase belt temps.
So at the end of the day the gauge allows you instant access to belt temps and gives you information to use to determine why it is that hot and fix it or just get off the GO pedal.
A Few Things About Your Belt You Should Know:
As we all know, UTVs are notoriously hard on belts. This has become especially true as manufacturers continue to roll out new models with even more horsepower than the year before. And we haven’t even mentioned the tendencies of most UTV owners to mod their vehicles until they’re almost unrecognizable from how they were bone stock. Belts have been evolving as well, in an attempt to keep up, but one can’t help but think they’re fighting a losing battle.
Belt Life Expectations
But let’s be honest, where’s the fun in keeping your machine stock? Mods affect clutching and clutching plays a major role in either shortening or preserving belt life. If you put on larger rims, or heavier tires, you should probably change out some weights and springs. Reflash the ECU, or add a turbo? You should probably change out some weights and springs. The goal is to run at peak horsepower RPM, and have the lowest belt temperatures. This will be the best balance of power and belt life.
2 Ways That Belts Fail
Belts fail for many different reasons. However, they usually seem to fail in one of two ways.
1. In Large Chunks
With your tires off the ground, your secondary clutch is rotating with much less resistance but when your tires hit ground then load instantly increases. This will cause the secondary clutch to rapidly close, slamming against the belt. You can imagine that as the secondary slams close, it will instantly begin to stretch the belt apart because the primary clutch hasn’t had time to react and shift properly for the instant wheel speed change. This causes an immediate change in the length of your belt, and weakens certain portions of the belt. There are other ways to shock load your belt, but we’ll leave that discussion for the comment section below.
2. In Small Pieces
These are just some of the things we’ve seen as we’ve rode, and here’s a list of things you can keep your eyes out for as you ride. This list contains signs that your belt is wearing down, before it breaks and leaves you walking back. If we missed anything, please let us know in the comment section!
Things To Watch Out For