Clutch Spacing/Alignment Tool and Lock Plate
The article below is older but not changing it, everything still applies to all the vehicles the tool works on, what is new is the ability of the tool to work on other vehicles than the XP 1000. The only part of the tool for any year is the transmission tube. You can buy a 14-15 tube and a 16 and newer tube and cover them all with one tool. But the new info is the 16-18 XP 1000 tool also works on same year models 1000S, General and 17 Ranger 1000 and 18 Ranger Crew 1000 but NOT 18 three seater. All have the same crankshaft fitment, all the same secondary shaft on the outside of tranny and all have the same shaft spacing. So to clear that up. If you have a 14-15 model XP 1000, want this tool get it, buy a new 16 and newer vehicle mentioned you simply have a buy a transmission tube not a whole new tool.
The 1000XP and XP4 has had a good bit of issues with the clutch system and one of the biggest has not gotten talked about much until now by us because we didn't have you and answer to the problem but with the help of SDI we do now.
What is the problem? Shaft spacing and alignment issues. The RZR engine and transmission is connected to the frame at each end and bolted together in the middle. What happens is the engine/tranny start sagging in the middle over time and the shafts get closer together therefore the belt gets slack, rpm goes up, the belt slips and the belt starts hitting the top of the back cover at the top of cover near the exhaust duct plus it starts blowing belts.
I would like to say there are a couple other issues too, the shafts can be too far apart from factory causing a very tight belt, makes a noise and then there are times it was set wrong from factory and shafts too close together.
Then the biggest issue that has not been able to be addressed until this tool came out is "alignment" and we do not mean by traditional standards like one pulley is not inline with the other we mean on angle. Let me explain but using exaggerated angles
The engine and tranny are bolted together with six bolts and as mentioned they move over time but they don't always sag straight down. So the engine for an example could sag straight down but the tranny could sag on an angle like say more movement in the mounts on passenger side than drivers side and it sits at an angle. So picture the crank sitting straight and the tranny shaft at a 45 degree angle (exaggerated). So if you didn't have this tool and you simply had the tool that is a flat bar with a hole in each end that is spaced 10 1/2" apart you could set the spacing but not the alignment or angles. With that tool you can only get one of the issues straightened out. Actual alignment meaning one inline with other can't hardly be off because of the design of the engine/tranny mount but the angle at which that sit to each other can be off . Kinda hard to explain. Guess a good visual would be to take a birds eye view looking straight down at the shafts, the front one straight an the transmission shaft twisted a bit.
So only a tool like this new one that extends the shafts out and allows you to put two bars on that are spaced 10 1/2" on center apart is the only tool that will have the spacing right and angle right.
Once you have it all set correct then there is the optional locking plate. The locking plate locks the engine and tranny in this spot so it will not move in the future. As mentioned in the install video you may need to tap a couple holes already in the engine side and we offer those taps to do the job. That was a short and sweet explanation of the plate but in the end that is all it does, just lock it all in place.
I would steer the sale of this tool since it is not inexpensive to groups of owners who have several friends with RZR 1000 to spread the cost out. Or the guy who is constantly blowing belts and does not know why, the cost of two Polaris belts will buy the tool and plate.
This tool and plate came from UTV racing to fix a problem and it does a very good job of it.