This is something I have been meaning to write for a while.

Let me give my disclaimer first, this is my opinion and from my personal experience building a good many Kawi V-Twin engines in the last couple years.

I am going to also add, I do NOT think the Kawi is a piece of junk, it does have some inherent issues that happens to SOME not all. The following information is just that, information so if your Teryx or Brute becomes hard to start you might need to look at this. If it does NOT apply to you or your vehicle then please over look this. Also most UTV's of any brand have some kind of issues and the Teryx is no different.

There are a number of Kawi V-twin engines in Brutes and Teryxs that get hard to start and it effects all year models. The T4 is destined to have the same issues as it has the same valves according to the parts fiche. . I also can't say it effects them all, there seems to be just as many running around problem free as those with issue probably way more without issues.

The issue is the valves namely the intake valves deface or deform causing the valve to sink up in the head which makes the valves tight, if left long enough it will deform to the point the valves no longer close and the engine will not start.

What is causing the issue? Can't say for sure whether it is the valve or weak valves springs, all I can tell you is by replacing them with good aftermarket valves and springs the problem is fixed.


How do you know if yours is getting ready to need them? When it starts to have a hard starting issue and this applies to all year models new and old.

If your Teryx or Brute 750 gets to where it is hard to start then adjust your valves and it it starts good after that then you will know soon you will be replacing your valves.


Normally the valve seat is not hurt but can be, only a couple times have I had to recut seats. Also the aftermarket valves do not have to be lapped, simply remove and replace. We reuse the stock retainers and keepers. The springs we sell are dual springs and they have a upside to them, they should be installed with the coils on the inner spring that are closer together at the bottom. Some people will argue this point on the seats, reusing retainers and keepers but to date I have only had to cut seats twice and always reused the retainers and keepers with ZERO issues.

So if yours is hard to start and you are going to replace your springs and valves, do you just need that and head gaskets plus valve stem seals and make the swap? Depends on whether you are doing the work or not yourself.

If you are paying someone and they are in the internet business where any little thing go wrong someone will get on a forum and start pointing fingers the way below is just the way you have to do it. This is not required to do but is the zero issue way we do it. It is more expensive but smart.

If you are paying me to do it, I will not just do that because the four head bolts, hold the cylinder on too and the cylinder only has three screws on one corner holding it down so if we did just the head work and didn't change base gaskets the base gasket stands a chance of leaking by breaking the seal when you removed the head bolts and you would want me to fix it for free if I did not do that.

The train keeps rolling!! LOL So we pulled your cylinders off, might as well run a ball hone thru cylinders and put new rings in there for a fresh top end right? Ok still got more to do. If you have both cylinders and heads off, only thing holding the engine in is two bolts and a couple wire plugs so you might as well pull the engine so you can do the work on a bench where you can do a cleaner install and not hurt your back.

So now your engine is on my work bench, you are only about $300 to $400 away from splitting the case, getting some eyes on the internals, replacing rod bearings, replacing cam chains and oil pump chain, putting a hole in the breather tube in the internal oil breather tube to cut down on oil being pumped in the intake. Only one time did I split a V-Twin engine and replace rod bearings that appeared fine buy checking rod movement left to right and up and down that did not need bearings. Every other time they had a good bit of wear and would not have been long before going out.

I have also found other issues like the present one in shop that only has 500 miles on it and the inside breather tube had for some reason come all apart in the engine but at that point not hurt anything and it needs rod bearings too at just 500 miles

So now the engine is completely fresh after all this.

Now if you are going to do your own valves then you can get away with doing just them and head gaskets as you will have no one to blame but you if something else goes wrong or leaks.

We arrived at the end of this and nothing is for sale and this is just info to keep in mind IF it happens to you, at least you will know what is going on and have a direction to go in.


Hope this sheds some light on this subject and feel to contact me for more info.

Todd